Articles - The Search for Redrock Canyon – a lost Shangri-la

The Search for Redrock Canyon – a lost Shangri-la

By Hugh Blanchard


Many local hikers are familiar with the Liebre Mountain Region and many local outdoor enthusiasts have also visited Castaic Lake, one of Southern California’s largest reservoirs.  Few, however, have ventured into the region in between.  I am referring to the rugged but beautiful Redrock Mountain Area; scenically magnificent, with many ecological assets including unique wetland habitats, sculpted sandstone formations, prehistoric Chumash Indian sites, abandoned campgrounds, ranches and mines and one of the last natural refuge areas of the endangered California Condor.  Some regard the portion of Forest Service Road 6N32, extending one mile west of Cienaga Campground, as the most fascinating Forest Service Road in California.  It goes along the bed of Fish Canyon barely 15 feet wide in places.  However, it is also a harsh, unforgiving land with no present inhabitants.

   
                Red Rock Canyon -Liebre Mountain area looking north (2000)

Most of its few hikers are hunters searching for its numerous mule deer and quail.  It trails are heavily overgrown and some are gated– a result of a policy of no trail maintenance begun by the Saugus District Ranger’s Office in 1978.  Although barely 50 miles from Los Angeles, it is gradually turning into a rehabilitated wilderness.  I knew nothing about the locality but soon found out that virtually no one else did either.

I was unable to find any written history of the district through standard research; however, personal communications I received disclosed that it has an interesting, even violent past.  My interest in this area began by hearing of a number of trips made about 25 years ago by several young men then residing in the Santa Clarita Valley. Following the direction of a 92 year old Castaic resident who visited three old gold mines in 1932, the young men found the mines, using motorcycles. Fifty years before the elderly man had been maintenance supervisor at what is now Rogers Campground, an unmaintained forest service campground but which  was then a privately operated church campground which had replaced an earlier mining camp. The mines are thought to be old Spanish gold mines; perhaps even the legendary Los Padres Mine, the most persistent of the vanished mine legends of Southern California. Supposedly, a lost mission mine was rediscovered in the area back in the 1870s and this area is the favored mythological site of the Los Padres Mine.

The map indicated a hike of no more than 6 miles and an elevation gain well under 2000’.  During my initial hikes I was frequently accompanied by grotto member Dell Quick and his son. I had been doing a fair share of mountain hiking so I thought that even for a senior citizen this should be a mere stroll in the park. As it turned out, there was a catch.

I started hiking from the gated road, installed in 1988 by the Forest Service, at the eastern end of Templin Highway, 4 miles from the I-5 exit.  I hiked up the eroded and overgrown Cienega Canyon trail, sometimes referred to as the “Old Telephone Road”; the first telephone line between San Francisco and Los Angeles was installed here sometime after 1915.  The original road extended north about a dozen miles to the Old Ridge Route. 

The trail passes near an old Chumash burial site.  There have been reports of alleged “malevolent Indian spirits” guarding the mines.  Perhaps I should add that the young man who had originally found the Chumash burial site around 1980 was later severely injured in a motorcycle accident along the trail.  The Chumash subtribe in this area was the Tataviam, or Alliklik.  They were a small tribe of 500 to 1000 members and were assimilated at an early date into the Spanish missionary system and little is known of their native culture.

After about 4 miles I bushwhacked east to the bottom end of Redrock Canyon.  The mines are about a half-mile above a small waterfall.  I found the route quite sporting.  It involved going through and under thick chaparral.  After finally reaching the bottom of the canyon.  I encountered dense thickets of blackberry brambles and clusters of poison oak while attempting to go up a thickly banked stream.  I finally abandoned my efforts to proceed up the canyon bottom and instead worked my way along the side of the cliff as far as I could.  I found to my dismay, that it was a box canyon ending in a sheer 40-foot cliff. Just beyond there was a 30 foot waterfall.   Thus ended my first attempt to reach the mines.

                 
                Looking north into Red Rock Canyon and waterfall (2000)

During my bushwhack, I noticed two rather old blinds made of branches and pipes.  I assumed they were made by hunters but later learned they were made by a team from the National Geographic Society and Federal zoologists who went to the area in 1978 to observe two condors whose nesting area was on the side of the inaccessible cliff.  For several years the immediate area was closed as a condor reserve but was reopened after the condors were removed to a zoo under the captive-breeding program.

My next effort, in January 2002, involved hiking east across Redrock Meadow on the overgrown Redrock Trail to the benchmark Redrock Peak (3991’) where I found a small film canister register containing the name of a Jack Grams dated February 13, 1990.   I attempted to reach the mines via the Redrock Mountain Chain starting from the old Pianobox Mining Prospect, best reached by taking the Lake Hughes Road from Castaic to its junction with the Warm Springs Road, FR 6N321, 13 miles.  Follow the well-graded but dusty and winding dirt road to the Warm Springs Divide, a three-way junction at 2.5 miles. 

 
                            writer on Red Rock Peak benchmark (3990ft)

At the junction, the right-hand road goes north about 4 miles and dead ends at a parking area.  An overgrown firebreak goes up about 1.5  miles to Sawtooth Peak.  On the left side of the parking area is an old mining road, which soon turns into an overgrown trail that ends after a mile.  The Burnt Peak Topo and the Auto Club L.A. County Map show a Maxwell Mine at this location.  This is presumably one of several graphite mines that a Frank Maxwell dug in this area in the 1930’s and 40’s.  I have not been able to find any sign of the mine along the overgrown trail. 

Back at the Warm Springs Divide, the left-hand road goes about 3  miles to the summit of Warm Springs Mountain but is gated at the beginning.  This is to help prevent vandalism at the Forest Service’s radio repeater station on the summit.  An extremely overgrown 3-mile trail leads from the summit to Lake Hughes Road at mileage-marker 11.23.

After a short jog to the left, the Warm Springs/Fish Canyon Road continues west down to Cienaga Campground (now unmaintained) in Fish Canyon, 6.5 miles.  From there, head north up Fish Canyon on any of the several jeep tracks which soon converge into one trail that leads to the Pianobox Mining Prospect, 1 mile.  It was named for a piano brought there during its mining days.  The unmarked Redrock Trail is across the creek just behind a large live oak and sycamore.  If you continued on, the canyon turns sharply right and abruptly enters the dark and cool Fish Canyon Narrows.  After another mile the narrows end at Rogers Campground with its 15’ exploratory tunnel on the left side of the canyon wall.  The Sierra Club Schedule regularly includes trips from Cienaga Campground to Rogers Campground.  This is the only ‘O’ rated hike I would recommend for this area.

                 
                                    Fish Canyon Road (May 2006)

In February I again climbed the benchmark peak from the Pianobox, on the Redrock Trail, this time accompanied by Tom Hill, outgoing Hundred Peaks Section Chairman.  We did some pruning, flagging and duck placement on the overgrown trail and reset two fallen metal junction markers at the high saddle and peak.  Tom also installed a register can and pad at the summit.  We continued past the peak along the ridgeline over several small bumps for 1.5 miles until reaching the high point of the Redrock Mountain chain (4489’).  There was no benchmark or ducks on this peak.

About a mile northwest from this high point at the east end of FR 7N221, but hidden by an intervening hill, is the occasionally worked Benco Mines site owned by Joe Benz along with his two brothers.  The mines consist of two short tunnels with several corrugated metal buildings, an older truck and much construction equipment lying around.  There is also a small natural spring fed pool which must have been attractive to the original native Indians. Mr. Benz advised me that he started the mines about 20 years ago and extracts rare earth and platinum.  He said there are numerous rattlesnakes in the area and that he and his brothers wear thick leggings to protect themselves.  He added that there are a number of black bears and cougars who can be aggressive when meeting a solitary hiker.  He feels that the area is dangerous.

 
                                              Benco Mine Area

About a quarter mile above the Benco Mines is the reputed site of the Gillette Mine, at least it is so marked on the Liebre Mountain Topo and the Auto Club L.A. County Map.  I could find no mine there.  The Forest Service apparently cleared the area of debris in 1979. As near as I can tell, mining operations started there in the late1920s by King Camp Gillette, founder of the Gillette Razor Blade Company, with his only child King Gaines Gillette playing a major role.  He or his son had obtained an old map that showed the location of Spanish mines and buried treasure.  They brought in a bulldozer and ploughed up a Chumash burial ground  hoping to find one of the hidden mines but nothing was ever found.  The senior Gillette passed away in 1932 in poor health and in bad financial shape.  His widow and son spent their last years in extreme poverty.  After his death, mining efforts continued with some members of the Hollywood movie community involved, including Tom Mix, the cowboy star.  According to Mr. Benz, there was violence and shootings during this period over conflicting mining claims.  Things finally quieted down after the Forest Service closed the mines.

Two miles up the same road is the abandoned Knapp Ranch.  A Mr. Kelly who operated a gas station and restaurant on the nearby Old Ridge Route, in operation from 1915 to 1933, originally built the ranch, consisting of several houses.  In 1962 a wealthy businessman named Frank Knapp acquired the property and operated it for many years as a hunting lodge and horse ranch.  After his death in 1988 it was acquired by the Forest Service in 1995 in a land exchange.  One remaining wild stallion still roams there, which is confirmed by the abundance of horse droppings.  The road is gated shortly above and below the ranch.

 
                              looking South at Knapp Ranch (Dec 2000)

One of the tenants at the Knapp Ranch was an enigmatic mining promoter by the name of Annie Rose Briggs, who was active during the violent days of the Gillette Mine.  She supposedly raised substantial sums of money by selling mining leases with stories of lost mines and buried treasure.

Tom and I returned back along the ridgeline a short distance and then headed down a steep gully leading to Redrock Canyon.  We noted old cans and other mining debris and the beginning of a dry blue-line stream, which soon developed steep rocky banks, which were frequently clogged.  We descended about a third of a mile with a 1000-foot elevation loss.  The gully was now getting less steep and we could see numerous fir trees below us.  However, we reluctantly agreed that if we were to return to our car in daylight we should turn back.  It took an hour to get back to the ridgeline.  The rest of the return trip of 4 ½ miles was easier and we arrived back at Cienaga Campground and our vehicle just as darkness was setting in.  Redrock Canyon had defeated me again.

              
        looking South into Red Rock Canyon. This is where Tom Hill and
                        myself turned back on my second hike.

In April I made a third and final attempt, this time with Sierra Club hardman Mars Bonfire.  We proceeded on the same general route as my first attempt except that we went west over the top of the cliffs overlooking the canyon.  This was basically the route followed by the explorers in 1980.  It was tiring going up and down gullies of thick chaparral but finally we made it to the top of the canyon just above the falls.  However, we could see no way down at that point so we continued north a ways and saw an animal trail which led to the canyon bottom.  We followed it down and as we approached the bottom, saw a large fir tree with attractive green foliage surrounding it.  A few moments later, we were at the bottom but my brief moment of triumph was short-lived.  The attractive green foliage was a sea of poison oak to which I am susceptible.  Reluctantly, we retraced our footsteps to the top of the canyon.  We could see other possible routes ahead of us that might get us into the canyon bottom past the poison oak barrier.  However, all would involve substantial additional effort and increase the chance we would not have enough energy or time to return in daylight.  Thus, with a mixture of disappointment and relief, we headed back up to the ridgeline.  With several rest stops, it took us two hours to get back to the Cienaga Canyon Trail.  From there it was relatively easy to go the remaining 4 miles to our car parked near the east end of Templin Highway.  Thus concluded my third and last attempt to reach the Redrock Canyon Mines.

     
    Topo of Liebre canyon- note the three attempted routes as marked.

 
                                 the three routes- a closer view

 
                    Looking into Redrock Canyon directly above waterfall

 
     The End: facing a sea of poison oak- my third and final hike with Mars Bonfire.

I had a number of conversations with John Childress and Robert Rice, two of the group who explored the mines back around 1980.  Both John and Robert felt then and now that the mines they explored are of Spanish origin and that those who worked the Gillette Mine(s) should have gone farther south into Redrock Canyon.  They gave the following reasons for this belief:

1. One of the mines has leached iron stalactites and calcite, which was tested by a college geologist as 200 years old.
2. Mescal cactus found near the mines is not indigenous to the area.
3. Spanish style “X’s” and crosses were carved in the rocks in a small dry canyon just west of the mines.
4. Some very old iron fragments from a wagon axle perhaps dating back to the Spanish Mission Period were found near the mines.
5. There are no mine ore tailings by the entrances to the mines.  This might indicate the availability of forced Native American labor to remove and process the tailings.

However, a geology professor I consulted stated that none of the usual methods of dating stalactites and calcite would be able to resolve the difference between 100 vs. 200 of age.  Also, the California Journal of Mining reports two old Anglo-owned gold mines in that same area (The Great West and Silver Mountain Mines).  John and Robert also found indication of early activity by Anglo miners in the area. (Remnants of a victoria-era woman’s high-button leather shoe and a pick ax head lodged 20 feet up a tree pointing the way to the mines.)
 
            the way to the mine: note the pick axe in the tree (ca 1980)

Let me suggest the possibility that the mines are of Spanish origin and that Anglo miners, a hundred years later, found them and continued mining them.

John and Robert both comment on the attractiveness of the canyon as compared to the surrounding area.  With its fir trees and abundant water it is substantially cooler than the hot, arid, treeless slopes surrounding it.  It must have seemed a veritable oasis to the original inhabitants as well as these early miners, whoever they were.  Also, I suspect that trails now long gone led into the canyon making access to it far easier than is now the case.

    
John Childress and Robert Rice at entrance to one of the Redrock Mines (1980)

Why did we fail?  John and Robert and their companions had a powerful motivation to reach the mines and explore them by backpacking and camping, which I lacked.  This was their belief that the Los Padres Mine was within their grasp.  They did not limit themselves to day hikes.

Hopefully, this article may inspire a stronger hiker and a more competent historian than myself to do additional research on this little-known area of Los Angeles County and recover more of its lost history.

My sincere appreciation to John and Robert, as well as Joe Benz for their patience and good humor in answering my numerous requests for information on the geography and history of this area.  Without their help, this article could not have been written.   As of November 2006 the Warm Springs Fire Road  (FR6N321)  has been closed indefinitely by the Forest Service thus the only present access is via Templin Highway.

SHANGRI-LA REFOUND

Responding to the writer’s pleas that a younger and more capable hiker find the long lost Redrock Canyon mines, British mountaineer Kevin Dixon on his 4th solo attempt succeeded in reaching Redrock Canyon and explored one of its 3 mines on Dec 9, 2006. This was only the second known visit since 1932 and the first since 1980.

Kevin has been in the U.S. for 6 years and is the GPS Product Manager for a Torrance based division of John Deere and Company. He was well qualified having bagged peaks on 5 continents.

On hike no. l in April 2006 he hiked directly up Redrock Canyon from the bottom end. Dense brush caused a withdrawal before reaching the landmark waterfall. This was the same route followed by the writer on his first trip 4 years before.
 
                                 Kevin's 1st route- "X" marks the end

On hike no. 2 on May 30 he headed north from unmaintained Cienega Campground to the old mining prospect at Pianobox Prospect and then northwest on the faint trail to the benchmark Redrock Peak (3991’). Kevin then continued north along the ridgeline over several small bumps until stopping at 4400’ shortly before the high point of the Redrock Mountain Chain (4489’). This was on the route taken by the writer on his 2nd hike.
 
                        Kevin's next route, "X" once again marking the end

On hike no. 3 on June 11 he took the same route as hike no. 2 except he continued past the high point and followed the steep ridge in a southwest direction for a mile through heavy brush before turning back when encountering a steep gully.
 
                Kevin's 3rd route- "X" marks the end- very close to the mines

In October Kevin took a break to climb Kilimanjaro. Refreshed after his vacation he finally succeeded on his 4th attempt on Dec 9. On this trip he followed the ridge directly down from the 4489’ high point and reached the wide boulder filled canyon floor 2 hours later. He then encountered a side canyon on the west side which had a rusty can and an old coat at the entrance. Scrambling up the canyon about 200 feet he saw a mine entrance on the left side. It contained tools, a wheelbarrow and a sleeping bag. It matched the description of one of the mines explored in 1980. The mine went in for 80 ft and ended at a log bridge covered drainage pool and a side passage which continued for another 33ft.
 
     Kevin's 4th and successful route- taking the North route in, South route out

After mapping and taking pictures (see below) Kevin took an animal trail up from the fir filled valley opposite the mine until reaching a stream bed which he followed up in an easterly direction until reaching the main ridgeline at about the 4200’ mark. He then headed down the ridgeline passing Redrock Peak and then to Piano Box Prospect and Cienega Campground. From there he took the gated Fish Canyon Road 2 miles back to his car at the east end of Templin Hwy just before heavy rains set in. The hike covered 15 miles and took 11 hours 15 minutes with a total gain/loss of 4650 ft.

On Dec. 22 Kevin visited the canyon again for a 5th and perhaps final time following the same route he had exited on his 4th hike. He spent 3 l/2 hours in the canyon exploring down stream to the head of the falls, up several side canyons and the slopes surrounding the mine. He found what resembles a pestle buried in the stream bed at the bottom of the side canyon that leads to the mine. He concluded that the remaining 2 mines are now hidden by rocks and debris. A fallen tree is wedged downstream creating a large rock dam which has backed up and probably covered the mine entrances with rocks. He brought back an ore sample from near the mine for analysis. The analysis of the ore sample revealed it is predominantly galena which is very common in California. He also observed mountain lion tracks on the ridge line. Mountain lions and black bears ensure that in this area solitary hikers are not at the top of the food chain. Kevin carried a cell phone on all of his hikes, but reception was spotty at best.


                                                Kevin's 5th route

On his last two December hikes Kevin found the canyon completely dry.

Parties hiking there late in the year should not rely on canyon water to supplement their water supply.

In June 2007 Kevin advised the writer that he planned no further trips to the Redrock Canyon area and would probably be returning to his native England in the near future.

 
                              Upper Redrock Canyon (Dixon 2006)

     
                         Redrock side canyon (Dixon 2006)

     
Redrock Mine side canyon (as seen from Fir Tree Valley)(Dixon 2006)


     
                       Redrock Mine entrance (Dixon 2006)

     
                   Redrock Mine inner entrance (Dixon 2006)

     
                       Equipment in the Mine (Dixon 2006)

     
                      Calcite and power cable (Dixon 2006)

     
                   Log bridge over drainage pool (Dixon 2006)

     
                               Side tunnel (Dixon 2006)

     
Fir Tree Valley exit (as seen from Redrock Mine side canyon)(Dixon 2006)

 
                                     Map of the Mine (Dixon 2006)
 
Top
Home